The coolants are the same, but the color dye is different. Car company B sells another that is Y color, etc. Car company A sells their own brand of coolant that is X color. Other Asian companies may use Blue, Green, or whatever. The Toyota Pink is not backwards compatible for the older years, like our Camrys. The Toyota Red is forward compatible to the newer years as well. Toyota uses Red (concentrated) or Pink (diluted). The colors are ONLY for ease in identification of the coolants because certain auto manufacturers used certain colors. I confirmed this with a Beck/Arnley specialist who told me that their four colors (Red, Pink, Blue, Green) were actually the exact same thing (two are concentrates and two are diluted with a slightly different additive). Do you think your Toyota can sense what color dye is in your coolant? Huh? I personally don't mix the colors, but if you do it's OK as long as the ingredients are the same. As long as the ingredients are the same, that is what counts. There may be others, but as long as it's a phosphated OAT (HOAT) with no silicates, no borates and no amines, you are good to go. There are a couple of non-Toyota coolant brands that I know of that fit the bill: Beck/Arnley, Pentofrost A1 (Made by a German company named Pentosin), Zerex Asian Vehicle formula (but I can't find it in concentrated only pre-mix). BUT, it does not have to be the Toyota red or pink coolant, as long as the ingredients are the same. This means that most coolants on the shelf at your local auto parts store will NOT fit the bill. The coolant should be made out of ethylene glycols, phosphates (inorganic acid salts) with Organic Acid Technology (which makes it a Hybrid Organic Acid Technology or "HOAT"), no silicates, and no borates or amines (2-EHA is an amine). I came to the conclusion that there is a specific type of coolant that the Asian engineers decided works best in our cars. I researched this almost an entire day a while back. Perhaps I can help with the coolant issue. I've also reset the ECU a few different times in hopes of clearing the short term and long term fuel trims.Someone posted this on ToyotaNation and thought it gave some insight to the coolant madness in today's cars, especially Toyota: I've even had the stealership and a local shop double check the timing. Tried the motorvac treatment that Gadget recommended. I've cleaned the MAF with electronics cleaner. I've cleaned out the oil buildup in the throttle body with throttle body cleaner. Especially not realizing the differences in composition between the green stuff, the red stuff, and the pink stuff. Then the issue of the green coolant came up when I saw this thread. My idea behind trying a lower temp t-stat was an attempt to lower the cylinder head temps a bit to combat that pinging issue. The frequency of low RPM high gear ping remains unchanged if I get overzealous, relying on low end torque.
However, I will say that there was a difference between the 93 octane premium of the east coast versus crap 91 we have here in Cali.
It makes no difference if I run 10 tanks of mid grade or premium. However, anything after 3K RPM rips in this truck. The best I can do right now control how I modulate the throttle based on where I am in the RPM band and not to hesitate to downshift on the inclines. I've also reset the ECU a few different times in hopes of clearing the short term and long term fuel trims.
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